Shearling is a sheepskin hide with the wool still attached, tanned as a single piece so the leather faces out and the wool faces in. Sheepskin is the broader term for the hide itself, which may or may not have the wool left on. Faux shearling is a synthetic pile fabric sewn onto a separate backing, with no hide involved at all.
The words get used interchangeably in product listings, which is how people end up paying for what they think is a shearling jacket and receiving a lined synthetic one. Here is how to tell them apart.
Shearling
The key thing to understand: on a real shearling jacket, the leather and the wool are the same piece of material. The hide was tanned with the fleece still on it. Nothing is glued or sewn together.
That single fact is why shearling is so much warmer than anything else. There is no gap between the outer shell and the insulation, because they are one material. Air cannot circulate between layers, and wool holds heat while still allowing moisture to escape.
The classic example is the B3 flight jacket, developed for high altitude bomber crews. It remains the warmest jacket we make. See Shearling Leather Jackets.
Downsides, honestly: it is heavy, it is bulky, and it is genuinely too warm for mild weather. It is a winter jacket, not a three season one.
Sheepskin
Sheepskin refers to the hide of a sheep. All shearling is sheepskin, but not all sheepskin is shearling.
A sheepskin jacket may have the wool left on, in which case it is shearling. Or the wool may have been removed and the hide finished as smooth leather, in which case it behaves like any other soft leather and needs a separate lining.
Sheepskin leather with the wool removed is soft, light and comfortable, closer to lambskin than to cowhide in feel. Perfectly good, just not warm on its own.
When a listing says "sheepskin jacket", check whether the wool is part of the hide or whether the jacket is lined separately.
Faux Shearling
A synthetic pile fabric, usually polyester or acrylic, sewn or bonded onto a separate backing. It looks like wool from a distance and costs a fraction as much.
What it does well: it is far lighter, much cheaper, and it is the right choice if you avoid animal products entirely.
What it does not do well: it is considerably less warm, because there is a gap between the shell and the pile. It flattens permanently with wear, particularly at the collar and cuffs where it gets compressed. And it does not manage moisture, so it gets clammy in a way that wool does not.
Faux shearling is a reasonable choice for a fashion jacket. It is not a substitute for real shearling in cold weather.
How to Tell Them Apart
- Look at the edge. This is the clearest test. On real shearling, the leather and the wool are continuous at a cut edge, because they are the same piece. On faux, you will see the pile fabric stop and a separate backing begin.
- Part the fibres. Real wool grows from a leather base you can see underneath. Synthetic pile is woven or knitted into a fabric backing.
- Check the fibre ends. Wool fibres vary slightly in length and thickness and are crimped. Synthetic fibres are uniform and straight.
- Feel the weight. Real shearling is heavy. If a jacket looks like a B3 and feels light, it is not shearling.
- Press and release. Wool springs back. Synthetic pile stays compressed longer and eventually stops recovering at all.
Our guide on real leather versus faux leather covers the same principle for the outer shell.
Warmth Compared
- Real shearling. The warmest by a wide margin. Genuinely cold weather clothing.
- Leather with a quilted lining. Good for autumn and mild winter.
- Faux shearling lining. Warmer than an unlined jacket, noticeably cooler than real shearling, and it loses loft over time.
- Unlined leather. Windproof but not warm. A three season jacket.
Buying and Fitting Shearling
Two things to know before ordering.
Size up. The wool takes up real space inside the jacket, more than most people expect, and you need room for a layer underneath in the weather this jacket is built for. Our guide on whether to size up or down in a leather jacket covers this.
Order early. These are made to order, so there is a production window. Ordering in September or October means the jacket arrives before you need it rather than in the middle of winter.
Caring for Shearling
Never machine wash and never dry clean unless the cleaner specifically handles shearling, since standard solvents strip the natural oils from both the hide and the wool.
Brush the wool gently with a soft brush to keep it lofted. Hang on a wide, sturdy hanger, because these jackets are heavy enough to distort the shoulders on a thin one. Let it dry naturally at room temperature if it gets wet, never near a radiator. Store in a breathable cotton bag, never plastic, since wool needs air.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between shearling and sheepskin?
Shearling is sheepskin with the wool still attached, tanned as one piece. Sheepskin is the broader term for the hide, which may have the wool removed and be finished as smooth leather.
Is faux shearling as warm as real shearling?
No. Real shearling is significantly warmer because the wool and the leather are the same piece with no gap between them. Faux shearling also flattens with wear and loses insulation over time.
How can I tell if shearling is real?
Look at a cut edge. On real shearling the leather and wool are continuous because they are one piece. On faux you will see the pile fabric stop and a separate backing begin.
Why is shearling so warm?
There is no gap between the outer shell and the insulation, so air cannot circulate between layers. Wool also holds heat while still letting moisture escape.
Should I size up in a shearling jacket?
Yes. The wool takes up real space inside and you need room for a layer underneath in genuinely cold weather.
Can you wear a shearling jacket in mild weather?
It will be too warm. Shearling is winter clothing. For milder conditions choose a lined leather jacket or a bomber.
How do you clean a shearling jacket?
Brush the wool with a soft brush and spot clean the leather only. Never machine wash. Only dry clean with a specialist who handles shearling, since standard solvents strip the natural oils.
Choosing Yours
If you want real winter warmth, buy real shearling and size up. If you want the look at lower weight and cost, faux is a fair choice as long as you know what you are getting. Browse Shearling Leather Jackets and Aviator Jackets at Leather Outlet, and check the Size Guide before ordering. Made to order, XS to 5XL, free worldwide shipping.
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