Leather pants should sit at your natural waist with enough room in the seat to sit down comfortably and roughly two fingers of room at the thigh. They should feel slightly firm when new, because leather relaxes about half a size over the first month of wear. If they are comfortable and loose on day one, they will be baggy within weeks.
The main thing that trips people up is treating leather like denim. Denim has stretch woven in and gives as you move. Leather has almost none, so the room has to be built into the cut rather than borrowed from the material.
The Six Checkpoints
1. Waist
At your natural waist, not on your hips. This matters more with leather than with any other trouser fabric. Leather has no grip and no stretch, so a low rise pair will slide down as you walk and you will spend the day pulling them up.
You should be able to fit a finger between the waistband and your body. Tighter than that and the waistband will dig in when you sit.
2. Seat
This is the check almost everyone skips, and it is the most important one. Sit down in them before deciding.
If the leather pulls across the back when you sit, they are too tight. That strain shows as horizontal lines, and over time it stresses the back seam. Leather that is repeatedly strained at one point will eventually give way there.
3. Thigh
You should be able to pinch about two fingers of material at the widest part of your thigh. Skin tight leather creases heavily at the top of the thigh, and those creases catch the light and never fully disappear.
4. Knee
Bend your knee fully. There should be room to do it without the leather pulling tight across the kneecap. Leather takes a permanent crease behind the knee over time, which is normal, but it should not be under tension when bent.
5. Leg shape
Straight or slightly flared suits most people. Heavy tapering works in denim because the fabric drapes, but leather holds its own shape and a strongly tapered leather leg tends to look unbalanced at the ankle.
6. Length
To the ankle bone if you want to show the shoe, or breaking gently on the shoe for a longer line. Leather does not hem itself neatly the way cotton does, so getting the length right at the point of order matters more than usual.
How Much Do Leather Pants Relax?
Roughly half a size over the first month of regular wear, and no more. Body heat softens the hide and it starts to follow your shape, particularly at the knees, seat and waistband.
Lambskin relaxes fastest, usually within two or three weeks. Cowhide takes considerably longer and gives less. Suede sits in between.
Two practical consequences. First, buy for a firm fit rather than a comfortable one. Second, the shape they relax into is your shape, so they will fit better at week six than at week one.
Which Rise Suits You
High rise. Sits at the natural waist, which is where leather works best. The most flattering option for most people and the most secure.
Mid rise. Sits just below the waist. Comfortable and versatile, though it needs a slightly closer waist fit to stay put.
Low rise. The hardest to wear in leather. With no stretch and no grip, low rise leather slides down as you move.
Lining Matters More Than People Expect
A full lining does three things: it stops the leather sticking to your skin, it stops body oils breaking down the hide from the inside, and it makes the pants far easier to pull on and off.
Unlined leather pants are lighter and cooler but they mark faster and are harder to wear for a full day. If you plan to wear them often, look for a lining.
Getting Your Measurements
Take four numbers over light clothing:
- Waist. Around your natural waist, level, not pulled tight.
- Hip. Around the fullest part of your seat.
- Thigh. Around the widest part of one thigh.
- Inseam. From the crotch seam down the inside of the leg to where you want them to end.
Check them against our Size Guide. If your waist and hip point to different sizes, take the larger one and have the waist taken in, since a tailor can adjust a waistband but cannot add room through the seat.
Every pair is made to order in XS through 5XL with a custom option at no extra cost, which is worth using with leather pants more than almost any other piece.
Frequently Asked Questions
How should leather pants fit?
At your natural waist, with enough room in the seat to sit comfortably and about two fingers of room at the thigh. Slightly firm when new, since leather relaxes about half a size over the first month.
Should leather pants be tight?
Close fitting, not tight. If the leather pulls into horizontal lines across the seat when you sit down, they are too small and the back seam will be under constant strain.
Do leather pants stretch out?
They relax rather than stretch, giving about half a size over the first month of regular wear. Lambskin relaxes fastest, cowhide gives the least. It does not reverse.
Should I size up in leather pants?
Only if your hip measurement points to a larger size than your waist. In that case take the larger size and have the waist taken in, since the seat cannot be let out.
What rise is best for leather pants?
High rise, sitting at the natural waist. Leather has no stretch and no grip, so low rise pairs tend to slide down as you move.
Should leather pants be lined?
A lining is worth having if you will wear them often. It stops the leather sticking to your skin, protects the hide from body oils, and makes them much easier to put on.
What leg shape works best in leather?
Straight or slightly flared. Leather holds its own shape rather than draping, so a strongly tapered leg tends to look unbalanced at the ankle.
Finding Your Fit
Sit down in them before deciding, buy for firm rather than comfortable, and get the waist and hip right before worrying about anything else. Check the Size Guide, then browse Mens Leather Pants or Womens Leather Pants at Leather Outlet. If you want the shorter version, have a look at Mens Leather Shorts. Made to order in real leather, XS to 5XL, free worldwide shipping.
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