A B3 shearling jacket should fit roomy through the chest and body with room for a jumper underneath, the shoulder seam sitting on or slightly past your shoulder bone, and the hem at your belt line. Size up if you are between two sizes. The wool lining takes up considerably more internal space than people expect.
This is the one leather jacket where the usual fit advice does not apply. A B3 is a cold weather jacket built to be worn over layers, and sizing it like a fashion jacket leaves you with something you cannot actually use in the weather it was designed for.
Why the Wool Changes Everything
On a real shearling jacket, the wool is part of the hide rather than a lining sewn in afterwards. The fleece sits on the inside and the leather faces out, tanned as one piece.
That fleece is genuinely thick. A B3 in a given chest measurement has noticeably less usable space inside than a lined leather jacket with the same external measurement, because the wool occupies it.
The wool also compresses slightly with wear, which means the jacket gains a small amount of room over the first season, particularly at the elbows and across the back. Not enough to rescue a jacket that was too small to begin with.
Our explainer on shearling versus sheepskin versus faux shearling covers the material difference in full.
The Fit Checkpoints
Shoulders
The seam should sit on your shoulder bone or very slightly past it. A small amount of drop is acceptable on a B3 in a way it is not on a cafe racer, because the jacket is meant to be substantial. More than an inch of drop and it is too big.
Chest
Fasten it fully over a jumper, not a t-shirt. That is the test. You should be able to move your arms freely and cross them in front of you without the front straining.
If you test the fit over a t-shirt and it feels right, the jacket is too small for winter use.
Sleeves
To the wrist bone. B3 sleeves are cut full to accommodate a jumper sleeve underneath, so some bulk in the arm is correct rather than a fault. The cuff, whether buckled or knit, should close comfortably over that.
Length
At the belt line. A B3 is a short jacket by design, since it came from aircrew who needed to sit in a cockpit without the hem bunching. It should not cover your back pockets.
Collar
Fold the collar up. It should close around your throat and cover the back of your neck without forcing your head forward. This is the single most useful feature of the jacket in real cold, so check it works.
Size Up, and Here Is Why
Three reasons this jacket breaks the usual rule.
The wool takes the space. Already covered, and it is the main one.
You will layer under it. Nobody wears a B3 over a t-shirt. It is built for weather that requires a jumper.
Shearling barely relaxes. Smooth leather gives about half a size over the first month. Shearling gives much less, because the hide is thicker and the wool provides no stretch at all. What you order is close to what you keep.
Our guide on whether to size up or down in a leather jacket gives the rule for every other style.
The Weight Is Real
Worth knowing before you order. A B3 is heavy, considerably heavier than any other jacket we make. That weight is the insulation, so it cannot be engineered away.
If the jacket is too large, that weight drags the shoulders down and the whole thing hangs badly. So size up for the layers, but do not go two sizes up on the assumption that bigger is safer. One size is the answer for most people.
Taking Your Measurements
Different from a normal jacket in one important way: wear the jumper you intend to wear under it.
- Chest. Over the jumper, around the fullest part, level all the way round.
- Shoulder. Across the back from shoulder point to shoulder point.
- Sleeve. From the shoulder point down a slightly bent arm to the wrist bone.
- Body length. From the base of the neck down to the belt line.
Check against the Size Guide. Every jacket is made to order in XS through 5XL with a custom option, and with a B3 it is worth telling us what you plan to wear underneath.
Order Early
One practical note. Made to order jackets have a production window, and a B3 is one of the more involved pieces we make. Ordering in September or October means it arrives before the weather turns rather than after.
Frequently Asked Questions
How should a B3 shearling jacket fit?
Roomy through the chest and body with room for a jumper underneath, shoulder seam on or slightly past your shoulder bone, and the hem at your belt line. Test the fit over a jumper, not a t-shirt.
Should I size up in a B3 jacket?
Yes, by one size if you are between sizes. The wool takes up real internal space, you will layer underneath, and shearling barely relaxes with wear.
Should I go two sizes up?
No. A B3 is heavy, and an oversized one drags at the shoulders and hangs badly. One size up is right for most people.
Does shearling stretch over time?
Very little. The wool compresses slightly over the first season, giving a small amount of extra room, but far less than smooth leather does. What you order is close to what you keep.
How long should a B3 jacket be?
Short, ending at the belt line. It came from aircrew who needed to sit in a cockpit without the hem bunching, so it should not cover your back pockets.
Should I measure over a jumper for a B3?
Yes. This is the one jacket where measuring over a thicker layer is correct, because that is how the jacket will actually be worn.
When should I order a shearling jacket?
September or October. These are made to order and a B3 is one of the more involved pieces, so ordering early means it arrives before you need it.
Getting Yours Right
Measure over a jumper, size up by one, and check that the collar closes properly around your throat. Browse Shearling Leather Jackets and Aviator Jackets at Leather Outlet, and check the Size Guide before ordering. Made to order in real shearling, XS to 5XL, free worldwide shipping.
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