A cafe racer jacket should fit close to the body with the shoulder seam exactly on your shoulder bone, sleeves ending at the wrist, and the hem sitting at your belt line. It is cut slimmer than a bomber and slightly longer than a biker jacket. If you are between two sizes, take the smaller one.
The cafe racer is the least forgiving leather jacket to fit correctly. A biker jacket has lapels, a belt and hardware that hide a slightly loose fit. A bomber has a ribbed hem that pulls everything in. A cafe racer has none of that. It is a plain shape with a band collar and a straight zip, so any extra material shows immediately.
The Five Checks
Shoulders
The seam sits exactly where your shoulder bone ends and your arm begins. On a minimal jacket this is the first thing anyone notices, because there is no collar or lapel drawing the eye away from it.
A shoulder seam sitting even an inch down your upper arm makes a cafe racer look borrowed. This is also the one measurement that cannot be altered afterwards, so it decides your size.
Chest
Zipped over a t-shirt, you should be able to slide a flat hand between your chest and the leather, no more than that. Any extra and the jacket loses the clean line that makes the style work.
If the front pulls into horizontal creases across the chest when zipped, it is too small and the zip will be under constant strain.
Sleeves
To the wrist bone, or a fraction shorter. Cafe racer sleeves are cut slim through the arm, closer than a bomber sleeve, and they should follow your arm rather than hanging away from it.
Bend your elbow. There should be enough room to move without the sleeve pulling tight at the bicep.
Length
The hem sits at your belt line. Slightly longer than a biker jacket, which is deliberately cropped, and noticeably shorter than a fashion jacket.
If the hem sits above your belt, the jacket is short in the body and will ride up as you move. If it covers your back pockets, it is too long and loses the proportions of the style.
Movement
Zip it fully, cross your arms, then reach straight forward. You should feel resistance but be able to move. If the back pulls hard across the shoulder blades or the hem lifts well above your belt, size up.
Cafe Racer vs Biker Fit
People often assume these fit the same way. They do not.
- Length. Biker jackets are cropped and end at or above the belt. Cafe racers sit slightly lower, at the belt line.
- Sleeves. Biker sleeves often run deliberately short so the cuff does not bunch when leaning forward. Cafe racer sleeves reach the wrist.
- Chest. A biker jacket can be worn very close because the lapels break up the line. A cafe racer needs a fraction more room to avoid looking strained, since the flat front shows everything.
- Collar. The cafe racer band collar sits against the neck. It should not gap at the front or press into your throat.
If you are still deciding between the two shapes, our comparison of bomber, biker and cafe racer styles covers the differences in full.
Which Leather Suits the Cut
Lambskin is the most common choice, because the clean lines of a cafe racer suit a hide that drapes rather than one that holds a stiff shape. It is comfortable immediately and follows the body.
Goatskin is the better choice if you want more durability without much extra weight, and its pebbled grain adds texture to what is otherwise a very plain jacket.
Heavy cowhide can be used, and it will last decades, but it takes two to three months to break in and adds noticeable bulk to a style that is meant to be slim. Our guide to lambskin, cowhide and goatskin goes into this properly.
What Happens Over the First Month
Leather relaxes rather than stretches. Over the first month of regular wear, body heat softens the hide and it starts to follow your shape at the elbows, shoulders and back. Expect about half a size of give in total.
This is why a cafe racer that feels slightly firm when you first put it on is usually the correct size. One that feels comfortable and relaxed on day one will feel loose by the time it has broken in, and the clean line will be gone.
Getting Your Size
Take five measurements over a t-shirt: chest, shoulder, sleeve, waist and body length. Our guide on how to measure yourself at home walks through each one, and the numbers go against the Size Guide.
If your shoulder and chest point to different sizes, take the shoulder size. If nothing lines up neatly, use the custom option, which costs the same as a standard size because every jacket is made to order anyway.
Frequently Asked Questions
How should a cafe racer jacket fit?
Close to the body with the shoulder seam on your shoulder bone, sleeves at the wrist and the hem at your belt line. You should fit a flat hand between your chest and the leather when zipped over a t-shirt.
Should a cafe racer jacket be tight?
Close fitting, not tight. If the front pulls into horizontal creases across the chest when zipped, it is too small. If you can gather material at the sides, it is too big.
Should I size up or down in a cafe racer jacket?
Size down if you are between two sizes. There is no detailing on a cafe racer to hide excess material, so a loose fit shows immediately.
How is a cafe racer different from a biker jacket?
A cafe racer has a small band collar, a straight centre zip and minimal detailing. A biker jacket has an asymmetric zip, wide folding lapels, a belted waist and more hardware. The cafe racer also sits slightly longer.
Where should a cafe racer jacket end?
At your belt line. Above it and the jacket will ride up as you move. Covering your back pockets and it loses the proportions of the style.
Which leather is best for a cafe racer jacket?
Lambskin for softness and drape, goatskin for durability with texture. Heavy cowhide works but adds bulk to a cut that is meant to be slim.
Will a cafe racer jacket loosen over time?
It will relax by about half a size over the first month of regular wear. Buy for a firm fit rather than a comfortable one, or it will end up loose.
Getting Yours Right
Prioritise the shoulder, keep the chest close, and take the smaller size if you are between two. Check the Size Guide, then browse Cafe Racer Jackets at Leather Outlet. If you want something with more presence, have a look at Biker Jackets instead. Made to order in real leather, XS to 5XL, free worldwide shipping.
0 Kommentare